Mar 31, 2013 - C-Class (W203) - Subwoofer Install Question - Hey guys, I'm going to add a sub that I had from my previous car into my 06 c230 this weekend.

Hey guys, I'm going to add a sub that I had from my previous car into my 06 c230 this weekend so of course MBWorld would be my first stop. I searched for a few days on this and found a lot of threads, but the portion for running the power to the battery is what is eluding me. I did see one install where the poster recommended removing the plate underneath the glove box, where I can find four holes that go through the side wall. My only problem is that I looked at the hole and there's now way 4 gauge wiring is fitting through there. I'm running a single 10' JL W3v3-4 and I really don't feel comfortable running 8 gauge wiring to that. I also saw another post where the poster ran the power to the stock amp under the seat and tapped that for power, but that doesn't sound too safe either.

My question is, to those who have added subs with 4 gauge wiring. What's the safest and easiest way to get the 4 gauge wiring through the firewall. Hey guys, I'm going to add a sub that I had from my previous car into my 06 c230 this weekend so of course MBWorld would be my first stop. I searched for a few days on this and found a lot of threads, but the portion for running the power to the battery is what is eluding me.

I did see one install where the poster recommended removing the plate underneath the glove box, where I can find four holes that go through the side wall. My only problem is that I looked at the hole and there's now way 4 gauge wiring is fitting through there. I'm running a single 10' JL W3v3-4 and I really don't feel comfortable running 8 gauge wiring to that. I also saw another post where the poster ran the power to the stock amp under the seat and tapped that for power, but that doesn't sound too safe either. My question is, to those who have added subs with 4 gauge wiring. What's the safest and easiest way to get the 4 gauge wiring through the firewall.

Thanks!drill a hole and use a grommet. Did you build that tray yourself?yes of course. The sub fires up thru the existing sub mounting holes. The tray is hung via 4 bolts installed from the top.

Heluva job to remove the rear deck to do this. Right now I am running a 600 watt Pioneer PRS sub amp driving the DLS 10 inch sub. A 2x300 watt PRS amp for the DLS Nobelium mids, and 4x 75 watts for the DLS Tweets tweets and rears. Awesome stuff. The C Class is so very quiet inside and the doors dont rattle at all I also opened up the audio unit and solderd RCA outs to the pc board right after the DSP/DAC outputs. I know this thread is more than a year old, but let me see if I can save everyone a little time.

To install a sub amp in the rear you do not need to run a wire from the battery through the fire wall under the carpet to the trunk. There is no commercial 12 volt amp that can consume the current supplied by an AWG 4 wire.

The factory runs an AWG 8 wire from the battery to the fuse block in the rear that is properly protected. I cringe when installers run a wire from the battery terminal directly to an amplifier. They have no experience with wire or circuit protection, and it make the car a prime candidate for a car-be-que on Interstate 10. The terminals on the amps and the wire terminals commonly used cannot use the ampacity of an AWG 4 wire. Your hearing cannot stand the SPL produced by a '1,200 watt' amp. Thankfully the ratings in automotive aftermarket sound equipment are more inflated than mpg figures on a window sticker.

You can tap the power in the back, properly protect the wiring, and still have enough hip-hop thump to annoy drivers four cars back. To install a sub amp in the rear you do not need to run a wire from the battery through the fire wall under the carpet to the trunk. There is no commercial 12 volt amp that can consume the current supplied by an AWG 4 wire.

The factory runs an AWG 8 wire from the battery to the fuse block in the rear that is properly protected. I cringe when installers run a wire from the battery terminal directly to an amplifier. They have no experience with wire or circuit protection, and it make the car a prime candidate for a car-be-que on Interstate 10.This is what I was hoping to hear.

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Hate to mess with a well-packaged set of wiring, especially when there are so many taps off the positive battery terminal already. So if there is a way to use the power supply to the rear SAM without affecting the operation of the SAM, I'm interested. Fyi the 12v wire gauge charts found online aren't very consistent. The amperage ratings of 8AWGwire at 10' range from 30A-150A in these examples: I have a couple of photos of the back of my SAM showing where the 12v power cable enters the unit, and a set of external fuse taps on the bottom (17-19) that are rated at 20A each.